Thinking about keeping chickens?
Chickens are easy to care for but they do need a place to live which protects them from the weather and predators. Their overall well-being is important and you'll want them to be safe and happy. Hens also need a safe place to lay their eggs.
The size of your flock will determine how big the coop will be and how much lumber is needed to build the coop. If planning to use recycled materials, do not use wood that's been chemically treated. Since the birds peck at everything, this could harm them.
The coop must have sound structure...
Have 3 to 4 square feet of space per chicken. After taking zoning laws into consideration, find a place on your property that gets enough sunlight and has good drainage. Your coop needs to stay dry. You've heard the saying, "Mad as a wet hen!" Riiight.
Protect your flock by making sure the housing has a solid roof to protect them from the elements. And predators. Racoons are very creative in getting to what they want! Check every angle of the coop to make sure it's secure.
Chicken runs...
This is an enclosed area that gives an area where chickens can move and roam around. Ideally, the run should have 10 square feet of space per chicken. Of course, the bigger the run, the better it is for the chickens. Make sure to cover the run with wire mesh to keep out the nasty predators.
Bedding...
Now for the chicken coop floor. This can be concrete, wood, linoleum or vinyl. For ease of cleaning, choose vinyl or linoleum. The floor should be covered with wood shavings, hay or wood pellets. For a nice smell, use pine wood shavings. DO NOT use cedar because it can be toxic. DO NOT use sawdust because it can cause respiratory problems. You may think hay and straw would be good options, but this material can attract rodents, mites and lice. You don't want this!
The Deep Litter Method is a popular choice of bedding because it also provides compost. To do this, layer 4-8 inches of wood shavings on the floor, which you'll rake everyday to spread evenly. If you throw corn on the floor, your chickens will scratch through the shavings. This helps keep the bedding aerated and even.
After mixing with the chicken manure for six months, the shavings will become compost which you can spread on your lawn or garden for fertilizer. You will only need to clean the hen house once or twice a year with this method. You'll know when it's time by the smell.
Nesting boxes...
In order to lay eggs, your hens need nesting boxes. These should be 15 inches long, 15 inches wide and 12 inches deep. For fillers, use hay or straw. The boxes should be changed once a month to prevent health problems. One box for 4 to 5 hens will be enough. Keep the boxes at a slant. This keeps the birds from roosting on top of each other.
Lighting...
Good lighting is critical. It promotes maximum egg production and in the months when the days are shorter, this becomes very important. Even artificial light helps in laying eggs. Use two 65-watt bulbs for an 8 foot by 10 foot coop.
Guidelines for light:
* 24 hours a day of light for chicks up to seven days old.
* 8-12 hours of light a day for chicks one to six weeks old.
* 12 hours of light a day for chicks 6 to 19 weeks old.
* 12 -16 hours of light a day for chicks 20 weeks and older.
Light also provides warmth for the birds. Use timers to regulate how much light they receive each day.
Insulation and ventilation...
For fresh air and oxygen, your coop requires good ventilation. This also releases the carbon dioxide which if allowed to build up can harm the flock. Drill several holes in the top of the walls to create air passageways. Cover them with mesh. Or you can install windows in the coop. These will keep the birds cool in the summer. In the winter, you must have a good vapor barrier and insulation. The insulation has to be covered so the birds don't peck at it. These two things provide a comfortable environment for your birds to live in.
Feeders and waterers...
Waterers can be placed inside and outside the coop. However, food should be kept strictly inside. This keeps other critters away. Deep feeders are best because there won't be as much waste of the food. If you use a trough feeder, only fill it one-third of the way. Automatic feeders are also available.
If you want to bond with your flock, you can toss feed to them. It takes more time but some people wouldn't have it any other way.
There are many type of waterers. You can also purchase a a heater to prevent freezing so your birds will have available water even when it's frigid.
Roosts...
Chickens have a natural instinct to perch up off the ground, especially at night. They'll sleep shoulder to shoulder on a roosting perch. If they are free-range, they will sleep in a tree. The number of roosts will depend on the size of the flock. Don't arrange roosts on top of each other. Not pleasant for the birds below when the ones above them are going to the bathroom!
Perches or roosts can be ladder style and sloping toward the back of the wall. If perches are across from the nesting boxes, you won't have to walk through the droppings to gather the eggs. As well, don't have perches above waterers or feeders for the same reason. You don't want them contaminated from the droppings.
Perches should be 2 inches in diameter for chickens. One inch for bantams. Wood is more comfortable for the birds than metal and you'll want the edges rounded smooth so they can grip and get a good hold. Have the space between the bars be about one foot apart to give them enough room.
Under the roosts is where the greatest amount of poop will accumulate. A good idea is to have a manure box placed under the perches. They are filled with bedding and covered with moveable screen lids. These can be cleaned once a week or every day if you wish. Again, compost!
With these things in mind, you'll be happy and you'll have happy and healthy feathered friends!
