Poisonous Plants To Chickens

Our good friends over at http://www.keeping-chickens.com/
have given us permission to include an article they have on
their informative site about the plants that will do harm to
our flock. Hope you enjoy!

Below is a list of plants poisonous to chickens. If you are free-ranging your flock, you probably won't have to worry. This is because hens aren't stupid. If they happen to come across any of these plants, they are likely to keep on going.

However, if you keep your chickens in a backyard coop, they may think it's okay to eat anything you give them. After all, they trust you! With that in mind...

Poisonous Plants To Poultry

Aconite
Bryony
Horseradish
Hemlock
Henbane
Laburnum
Privet
Rhubarb
Yew
Members of the nightshade family, including leaves of the tomato plant and the potato plant.

Since we're not born knowing what these plants may be, I'm going to give you the meanings as well.

Aconite is poisonous plant of the buttercup family, which bears hooded pink or purple flowers. It is native to temperate regions of the northern hemisphere. An extract of such a plant is used as a poison or in medicinal preparations. (there's a double-edged sword)

Bryony is a climbing plant that has greenish-white flowers, red berries, and springlike tendrils. Native to Eurasia, it is the only British member of the gourd family. A climbing plant with broad glossy leaves, poisonous red berries, and black tubers. Native to Europe, it is the only British member of the yam family.

Horseradish is a European plant of the cabbage family, with long docklike leaves, grown for its pungent root. This root, which is scraped or grated as a condiment and often made into a sauce.

Hemlock is a highly poisonous European plant of the parsley family, with a purple-spotted stem, fernlike leaves, small white flowers, and an unpleasant smell. A sedative or poisonous potion is obtained from this plant. Such a potion was said to have been used to poison Socrates.

Henbane is a coarse and poisonous Eurasian plant of the nightshade family, with sticky hairy leaves and an unpleasant smell. A psychoactive drink is prepared from this plant.

Laburnum is a small European tree that has hanging clusters of yellow flowers succeeded by slender pods containing poisonous seeds. The hard timber is sometimes used as an ebony substitute. Native to Central and Southern Europe, laburnums have been widely planted as ornamentals.

Privet is a shrub of the olive family, with small white, heavily scented flowers and poisonous black berries.

Rhubarb is the thick leaf stalks of a cultivated plant of the dock family, which are reddish or green and eaten as a fruit after cooking. Hey, most people love rhubarb. But don't feed it to your chickens!

Yew is a coniferous tree that has red berrylike fruits, and most parts of which are highly poisonous. Yews are linked with folklore and superstition and can live to a great age; the timber is used in cabinetmaking and (formerly) to make longbows.

Leaves of potato and tomato plants...I'll bet you know those by sight!

Raising Chickens: All The Way From Hatch To Scratch

Raising chickens is rewarding in many ways. So let's start at the beginning, shall we?

If you want healthy and friendly chickens, (who doesn't?), it's recommended you buy day-old chicks or if you prefer, hatch them out yourself. All babies are adorable and you'll fall in love with your chicks with their chirps and cute, tiny features.

When hatched, chicks can live for 3 days on their yolk. Then they need water and "chick start" which can be medicated or non-medicated. Place water in a shallow dish with shiny stones or marbles. This is so your chicks will peck at the stones and drink water. But if they fall into the dish, they won't drown.

You'll keep your chicks in brooder boxes. Either purchased or made yourself. Heat is so important for the baby chicks. If they are indoors, a light bulb will be enough. Most choose a 250-watt "red" heat lamp. This keeps the chicks from pecking at each other.

Make sure the brooder is tall enough so the little ones cannot fly out easily. Because in their third week, they'll have the means to fly a remarkable distance. This is why brooders should have wire lids. And you don't want any drafts to give the chicks a chill.

Set the heat at 90 degrees the first week. You can lower the temps by 5 degrees each week for four weeks. This helps them get used to the temperatures in the great outdoors.

Just like you and me, a chick who is comfortable and well-rested is one happy camper. So pay attention to chicken bedding. Caution: Do not use cedar or redwood shavings because these are toxic to them and will cause damage to their respiratory systems. Bad!

Instead, you can use shredded newsprint, straw, pine shavings, walnut shells or specially made chicken bedding materials. Your chicks can be moved to outside chicken coops once they are fully feathered. Keep a heat lamp in a corner of the coop so they can stay warm in cooler weather.

Until your chicks are 4 months old, you will continue feeding them chick feed. Then you can change to layer mash or pellets. Oyster shell and hen scratch can be added to their diet because this will improve the quality of your chickens' egg shell. And more importantly, will help them to have strong bones.

Giving your chicks hen scratch keeps your chickens occupied if they are in a confined run rather than out free ranging. If circumstances require your chickens to be in enclosed chicken runs, be sure to add some hen grit. This is necessary for their gizzard in their digestion process.

Again, just like us, chickens love treats. Garden and table scraps will be appreciated. They also love looking for bugs, ants and worms. Children get a kick out of tossing treats into the hen house and watch the chickens racing for the prize.

By 6 months of age, most breeds will begin laying eggs. Your backyard chicken coop should be enclosed with a door, and chicken nesting boxes should be large enough for a couple of hens. It seems no matter how many chicken nesting boxes are available, those choosy hens always seem to want the same one.

Ventilation is important; make sure the airflow is good through the coop. Again, the bedding in the backyard chicken coop will be your personal choice. Fresh water and food are necessary daily.

By the time you've reached this stage in your "raising chickens" adventure, you've probably named them and delighted in their unique personalities. Now you can look forward to their blessings of quality, fresh eggs!

Keeping Chickens? What Makes A Good Chicken Coop?

Thinking about keeping chickens?

Chickens are easy to care for but they do need a place to live which protects them from the weather and predators. Their overall well-being is important and you'll want them to be safe and happy. Hens also need a safe place to lay their eggs.

The size of your flock will determine how big the coop will be and how much lumber is needed to build the coop. If planning to use recycled materials, do not use wood that's been chemically treated. Since the birds peck at everything, this could harm them.

The coop must have sound structure...

Have 3 to 4 square feet of space per chicken. After taking zoning laws into consideration, find a place on your property that gets enough sunlight and has good drainage. Your coop needs to stay dry. You've heard the saying, "Mad as a wet hen!" Riiight.

Protect your flock by making sure the housing has a solid roof to protect them from the elements. And predators. Racoons are very creative in getting to what they want! Check every angle of the coop to make sure it's secure.

Chicken runs...

This is an enclosed area that gives an area where chickens can move and roam around. Ideally, the run should have 10 square feet of space per chicken. Of course, the bigger the run, the better it is for the chickens. Make sure to cover the run with wire mesh to keep out the nasty predators.

Bedding...

Now for the chicken coop floor. This can be concrete, wood, linoleum or vinyl. For ease of cleaning, choose vinyl or linoleum. The floor should be covered with wood shavings, hay or wood pellets. For a nice smell, use pine wood shavings. DO NOT use cedar because it can be toxic. DO NOT use sawdust because it can cause respiratory problems. You may think hay and straw would be good options, but this material can attract rodents, mites and lice. You don't want this!

The Deep Litter Method is a popular choice of bedding because it also provides compost. To do this, layer 4-8 inches of wood shavings on the floor, which you'll rake everyday to spread evenly. If you throw corn on the floor, your chickens will scratch through the shavings. This helps keep the bedding aerated and even.

After mixing with the chicken manure for six months, the shavings will become compost which you can spread on your lawn or garden for fertilizer. You will only need to clean the hen house once or twice a year with this method. You'll know when it's time by the smell.

Nesting boxes...

In order to lay eggs, your hens need nesting boxes. These should be 15 inches long, 15 inches wide and 12 inches deep. For fillers, use hay or straw. The boxes should be changed once a month to prevent health problems. One box for 4 to 5 hens will be enough. Keep the boxes at a slant. This keeps the birds from roosting on top of each other.

Lighting...

Good lighting is critical. It promotes maximum egg production and in the months when the days are shorter, this becomes very important. Even artificial light helps in laying eggs. Use two 65-watt bulbs for an 8 foot by 10 foot coop.

Guidelines for light:

* 24 hours a day of light for chicks up to seven days old.

* 8-12 hours of light a day for chicks one to six weeks old.

* 12 hours of light a day for chicks 6 to 19 weeks old.

* 12 -16 hours of light a day for chicks 20 weeks and older.

Light also provides warmth for the birds. Use timers to regulate how much light they receive each day.

Insulation and ventilation...

For fresh air and oxygen, your coop requires good ventilation. This also releases the carbon dioxide which if allowed to build up can harm the flock. Drill several holes in the top of the walls to create air passageways. Cover them with mesh. Or you can install windows in the coop. These will keep the birds cool in the summer. In the winter, you must have a good vapor barrier and insulation. The insulation has to be covered so the birds don't peck at it. These two things provide a comfortable environment for your birds to live in.

Feeders and waterers...

Waterers can be placed inside and outside the coop. However, food should be kept strictly inside. This keeps other critters away. Deep feeders are best because there won't be as much waste of the food. If you use a trough feeder, only fill it one-third of the way. Automatic feeders are also available.

If you want to bond with your flock, you can toss feed to them. It takes more time but some people wouldn't have it any other way.

There are many type of waterers. You can also purchase a a heater to prevent freezing so your birds will have available water even when it's frigid.

Roosts...

Chickens have a natural instinct to perch up off the ground, especially at night. They'll sleep shoulder to shoulder on a roosting perch. If they are free-range, they will sleep in a tree. The number of roosts will depend on the size of the flock. Don't arrange roosts on top of each other. Not pleasant for the birds below when the ones above them are going to the bathroom!

Perches or roosts can be ladder style and sloping toward the back of the wall. If perches are across from the nesting boxes, you won't have to walk through the droppings to gather the eggs. As well, don't have perches above waterers or feeders for the same reason. You don't want them contaminated from the droppings.

Perches should be 2 inches in diameter for chickens. One inch for bantams. Wood is more comfortable for the birds than metal and you'll want the edges rounded smooth so they can grip and get a good hold. Have the space between the bars be about one foot apart to give them enough room.

Under the roosts is where the greatest amount of poop will accumulate. A good idea is to have a manure box placed under the perches. They are filled with bedding and covered with moveable screen lids. These can be cleaned once a week or every day if you wish. Again, compost!

With these things in mind, you'll be happy and you'll have happy and healthy feathered friends!

Keeping Chickens: How To Make Sure They Live Stress-Free

One of the most important things in keeping chickens is to look after them properly and help them avoid stress. Why is that?

Stress is a killer. For us and for our feathered friends. Chicken health depends on living as stress-free as possible. Chickens are very sensitive to everything around them. Excess stress can cause serious illness because it lowers the pH in their system. This makes them more prone to disease. Stress hormones also pass to the eggs.

Causes of stress in chickens are much the same as what causes stress in ourselves. Noise is a biggie. Climate change affects them. They don't like to be separated from their own kind. They don't like to be overcrowded. Other animals will upset them. Loud children will have them running for cover.

Steps to take to reduce stress in chicks:

** Make sure their coop is secure and has adequate lighting.

** Make sure they have enough space. No overcrowding!

** Cleanliness of the chicken coop is so important.

** Temperature control. Cool in summer. Warm in winter.

** Have the hens familiar with people. Interact with them everyday. Speak in soothing tones.

** Keep other pets away from the chickens if they are aggressive toward them.

** Make sure the birds have enough food and fresh water available at all times.

** Handle them gently. Never hold them upside down as it frightens them.

** In order to produce fresh eggs, make sure you gather the eggs on a daily basis.

** Provide enough grass for foraging.

** Be sure to provide a roost.

** The most important as far as I'm concerned...Teach children to respect these birds. Nothing makes me angrier than to see kids being cruel and indifferent to any creature. These lessons will go a long way in their lives.

**  Equally crucial is TLC. Give your flock love and attention.

Doing these things will help in keeping chickens stress-free, healthy and happy!

Raising Chickens In The Backyard: What's For Dinner?

Nobody can call chickens picky eaters! If you've decided to raise chickens in your backyard, the least of your concerns will be what to feed them. Because those birds will eat almost anything! I don't mean that in a bad way but the truth is that they'll peck at anything you put before them with great gusto.

Meat, vegetables, dog food, whatever...doesn't matter. They will clean out all manner of insects and worms they can pounce on. Watch your ankles! The food scraps from your own dinner is a very tasty treat for your birds. Same for peelings. This creatures are very cost-efficient. And cute, too! All you need to worry about are vitamins and boosters. And don't forget grains.

You can put the chicken feed in a special container or scatter it around. Don't worry about any of it going to waste. They don't miss a thing. Hens need calcium in their diet for egg laying. From your local feed store you can buy crushed clam shells. Add to their meal.

The foods I advise are feed, pellets, grains and corn. You can never go wrong with this diet or have to worry about their health. There are foods you should never give to chickens.

Chicken. They don't want to eat their own kind. Do you? And health problems could develop.

Apples will cause digestive problems if given all the time. Every couple of weeks is fine. But I stay away from them.

Potato peelings. They don't like the taste of root crops.

Orange peelings are too tough for their systems.

Tomatoes only in small quantities. May affect their droppings. That's why I don't serve 'em at all.

Bananas. They just don't like them.

So you see, there's not too much you have to worry about when it comes to feeding chickens. Only one of the reasons you'll come to love your new feathered friends!

Keeping Chickens: Understanding Their Vocalizations And Pecking Order

All living things have personality characteristics. It's what makes life so darn interesting. From humans to animals. If you're raising chickens, you'll get to see their individual behaviors. Watching this helps you understand their basic needs. That way, you can make their life more enjoyable.

Vocalization

We often think that it's only roosters that do the crowing. Yes, they do. In the morning and throughout the day! But all breeds vocalize. Some more than others. Naturally, smaller breeds of chickens are quieter than larger hens. Roosters crow in the morning to check on their neighbors. If they don't get an answer, they believe a next-door neighbor didn't survive the night and so they'll have new territory to move into.

If they hear another rooster crow, they'll reply. Things can get quite noisy around these guys. When they are challenged, they'll crow. When they think danger has passed, they'll crow. Any reason is good enough for them to do their thing.

Just before a rooster crows, he'll flap his wings. He wants the world to know he's fit and vigorous. Look at me! When a rooster is courting, he'll call hens to let them know he's found an interesting treat. They know what's really on his mind...but if they accept the food, the rooster will preen and waltz around the hen before attempting to mate. If the hen is agreeable to the advances, she'll go into a squatting position. If not, she'll grab the treat and make a run for it.

Males can become quite aggressive during the breeding season which is spring and summer. Don't let children get close to them. They like to feel they can beat up on humans. If you want to keep an aggressive bird for breeding, it's best to house it away in an enclosure that you don't need to enter too often.

Chickens have a lot of unique sounds. You'll hear a soft growl-like sound when they are broody. After laying an egg, they'll cackle. When calling their youngsters to food, they go "took, took, took". When they sense danger or become afraid, they will screech.

To minimize the sound, you can place the most noisy ones in a dark box at night. Something soundproof works. Return the birds to the run in the morning. Having the chicken coop in an area which has a lot of vegetation will mute the noise. Planting bamboo and conifers is a big help. Wind chimes are distracting as well.

Pecking Order

Yes, it's true. Even the chicken world likes order. It works like a chain. The dominant hen will peck all the hens down the line. In other words, the ones beneath her. The second in line can peck below but not a chicken higher up than herself. They work this out amongst themselves. Once the pecking order is established, all is well in the hen house.

When a new hen is introduced, you'll see the bullies. Adding more than one hen at a time makes things easier on the new kids on the block. It's a good idea to have them all meet through wire mesh at first so they can get to know each other.

Be sure to provide a place where the new arrivals will feel safe and where they can hide from the bullies. Add extra perches and consider removing the dominant bird to a different enclosure until the newcomers are well established.

It sounds cruel but that's the way it is. The established flock resents the new birds. So once the new chickens find out where they are in the pecking order, life will settle down. Make sure there's plenty of space in the run. This will go a long way in providing peace in the introduction process.

Keeping and raising chickens opens up a whole new world of delight.

Keeping Chickens: How To Pick Up And Handle Hens Properly

So you've decided you want to start keeping chickens. Or you already have them but want to know how to handle them in the right way. Here we go...

*  When you go to pick up a chicken, place one hand over the top of the bird. This keeps them from flapping their wings. Saves on your nerves and the bird's!

*  Place your other hand underneath the bird. Put middle finger between the legs. Then use fingers on either side to hold the chicken's legs. Firmly but gently. This stops any struggling.

*  Use thumb and little finger to hold tips of the wings still.

*  Rest the bird's breastbone over your forearm.

*  Hold close to your body. The bird will feel more secure. And they'll wiggle around a lot less!

Once you and your feathered friend get used to each other, it will become easier. Good luck.

Keeping Chickens: Build A Chicken Coop For A Home Sweet Home For Your Chicks

No matter what someone tells you about the quality of something you're planning to purchase, it goes a long way if you can hear from a satisfied customer. Word of mouth is a powerful thing. Whenever I buy a product, especially if it's online, I perform my due diligence.

When it comes to buying chicken coop plans, you should do the same. Keeping chickens is more than a hobby for you and your family. It's a labor of love. And you love and respect your chickens. You only want the best for them. So if you are looking to buy chicken coop plans, here's a testimonial from a happy customer you'll be interested in reading....

"My chickens are happy with their new home..."

"Have you been planning to make a cozy, comfortable and tidy coop for your chickens? Well, follow the guidelines in this wonderful resource! My chickens are happy with their new home! Bill's book helped me make a well-planned, easy-to-clean-and-maintain coop for my chickens. I got practical tips on locating, positioning, protecting and maintaining the climate in the coop.

Like me, it will help you too to choose the appropriate size, building design and materials for construction. This book not only helps you save while you build, but also enjoy the freedom to customize the coop to your individual specifications and needs.

With valuable inputs on light and ventilation, I was able to ensure that the coop position was such that it allowed enough light in, but did not make the coop drafty.

I particularly enjoyed the creative and innovative ideas thrown in about building low cost nesting boxes with material lying around the house. It set me exploring my own creativity and resourcefulness! An informative and easy to follow read, this book will guide you in building your own coop at a fraction of the cost of purchasing one! "

Rachana Misra - Go Green Farms™ Owner

If you want to be a satisfied customer, take a look at these chicken coop plans...

Click Here To Be Satisfied With Your Chicken Coop Plans!

Keeping Chickens: Preventing Health Problems

Just as with keeping ourselves healthy, the same is for our chickens. Prevention is far better than having to cure a disease. So where do we start? Good husbandry is important implementing good preventive measures to help keep illness and disease at bay and mortality rates low in our feathered friends.

Signs of a sick bird:

# Sneezing
# Lost of Appetite
# Tiredness
# Mites and Parasites
# Bloody droppings

When it comes to your chicken's safety, a good sturdy coop goes a long way in ensuring their health. Have good wire mash covering the windows and run to  keep out predators but be sure to bury it at least a foot underground to prevent them burrowing their way in.

During hot weather provide plenty of drinking water to avoid heat stress, and heating if necessary during winter. Also certain chicken breeds combs and wattles are susceptible to frost bite. Protect their combs with petroleum jelly.

But if your chickens could talk, they would tell you, "Home Sweet Home" is where it's at and you can find chicken coop plans at...Click Here!

Chicken Hatching Video

Keeping Chickens: What Type Of Chicken Coop Will You Need?

You've decided you are going to be keeping chickens. Now you're wondering what type of chicken coop you'll be needing. There are many chicken coop plans to choose from but you want the one that is the best fit for your needs. You'll be spending money on your poultry shed so you want to take your time to make the right choice.

So what type of coop should you build? The following guidelines will lead you down the right path to choosing wisely and being fully satisfied with your new chicken coop once it's built.

SIZE

There are small, medium  and large hen house plans. It all depends on the number of chickens you'll be keeping. The biggest mistake people make is trying to cram too many chickens into your coop. We don't like to feel like a sardine in a can. Neither do the chickens. They need space to live comfortably. They'll be happier and lay eggs properly.

If anything, you should go bigger instead of smaller. That way you'll be able to add more birds later on. Check out the link below for some excellent chicken coop plans...

Chicken Coop Designs!

FIXED SHED OR MOBILE

Portable chicken coops, of course, give you the advantage of being able to move it around to wherever you are, so if you're someone who will be keeping chickens as pets, this makes for a very attractive option.

A mobile chicken coop allows for easier maintenance since you can simply move the chicken coop to wherever you need to clean it.

If you're looking for something with a little more structural integrity you should choose fixed chicken housing. These are built sturdier so that they are able to withstand wear and tear. And all kinds of weather conditions.

PROTECTION

Those nasty predators. We do have to think about them as we don't want harm to come to our chickens. This will affect your decision on what type of chicken coop to make as well. Ideally you should have a very solid fencing system to keep all varieties of predators out. The chicken fencing will have to be built to match the size of the coop as well.

APPEARANCE

What do you want your chicken coop to look like?  There are a number of different ways you can build the chicken coop which will impact the overall design. This will also likely influence the cost of the building process, so it's something to think about so you can work within your budget.

There are definitely cheaper methods to building a chicken coop, so understanding the different things that will influence the cost is the first step to making a smart decision. You can get very creative with the appearance of your poultry shed. I've see a few that look like doll houses!

So, be sure you're factoring these points in as you decide which type of chicken coop you wish to build. Getting the information up front before you start to build will help save you hundreds of dollars over the long run.

Find Your Chicken Coop Plans Here!

Keeping Chickens Warm: Baby, Its Cold Outside

We don't like to be cold and neither do our chickens. We must keep them warm especially in cold weather. The chicken coop needs to be solid. It has to be dry and they don't want drafts ruffling their feathers, either.

You'll want to put a good layer of straw on the ground to help with insulation. In winter, the windows of the coop should have Plexiglas over the chicken wire to prevent cold drafts. This will still allow in light.

Now for the chicken roost. What would you rather put your bare feet on when it's cold? Plastic, metal or wood? Exactly. The chicken's feet will stay warm if the roost is made of wood.

Make sure they have a supply of fresh, unfrozen water. You can immerse a heater inside the water container or under it so that the temperature stays above freezing. A commercial broiler/layer feed can provide the chickens with energy for maintaining body warmth.

You may notice that chickens will huddle together when cold. They'll fluff their feathers and tuck their heads under their wings. Combs are susceptible to frostbite. Losing a comb is painful. You don't want this to happen.

Regulate the Temperature

Putting chickens in a room that is heated can be quite hazardous due to the considerable contrast between the outside and inside temperatures. An additional adverse effect concerns bacteria which are normally kept controlled as a result of the cold.

These bacteria are capable of flourishing in the moistened heat and can cause complications in the lungs of chickens. If the cold is extreme, a high temperature lamp may be improvised to ensure that the coop’s ambient temperature is nearer to freezing, but the coop should not be warmed up.

Although there is a chicken breed that is specifically bred to lay in winter, it is common for most hens to stop or decrease their egg production during the winter season. In this kind of weather, the eggs have to be picked more frequently otherwise they may freeze and break.

Insulating the Chicken Coop

Although free ranging of chickens is more beneficial than controlled housing, it generally results in their exposure to adverse weather conditions, which results in lower egg production. If you insulate the ceiling and walls of the coop, you have the additional benefit of moderate temperatures.

If you want to save money on insulation, heavy cardboard can be nailed to the inside of the coop’s ceiling and walls. This provides additional warmth while equally protecting the chickens from drafts. Ample ventilation should be provided for the chickens to ensure their health is good and it also lowers the coop’s humidity. It is preferable for the coop to have an adjustable window that provides fresh air although care should be exercised to make certain that the coop does not get excessively drafty.

It is good to note that due to the high resilience of mature chickens, they are capable of favorably withstanding low temperatures. Chickens are actually more susceptible to extreme hot conditions than to cold, as long as there is a provision of basic shelter.

For plans that will provide your chicks with good, safe housing, get  Chicken Coop Plans!

Chicken Coops: Maintenance Or A Little TLC Goes A Long Way

Your chicken coops are built and they are works of art. Be proud. In order to keep the chicken housing in the top of the line state you and your chickens enjoy now, you'll have to do your share of TLC. In other words, maintenance.

As with anything, the chicken coop will disintegrate over time if it's not looked after. We do too! So you just have to stay on top of things. Keep your eyes open and do repairs as soon as you notice the need. If you don't let things slide, you'll enjoy your project for years to come.

Things To Pay Attention To

THE DOOR

This is one area of the coop which is in constant movement. As with any door. Since you're going in and out to feed and look after the chickens, keep special notice and maintain regularly.

Notice if the latch becomes loose. If it does, fix ASAP. You don't want your feathered friends escaping and getting in harm's way. If the latch you have is constantly causes problems, replace it with something more solid.

THE FENCE

So important to monitor at least once a month. Check the structure and stability of the chicken fencing. If you have predators that come around, rest assured, they'll be watching for any signs of weakness.

THE FEEDERS

Chicken feeders are used on a daily basis, so you must keep a close eye on them. Also watch how your chickens are responding to the feeder height. They may like it lower or higher than you placed it. You want them to get to their food in comfort.

These are just some of the things to maintain in your chicken coop. Do this and both you and the birds will be comfortable and happy!

10 Things To Look For When Buying Chickens For Your Backyard Coop

You've decided you want to keep and raise chickens in your backyard. Maybe you have your chicken coop plans all picked out and now you're going to select the chickens. So what should you look for?

The Healthy Chicken Checklist

** You'll want bright chickens who are active. They should have good posture. Not looking like they're on their last legs.

** The eyes are also the window to the soul when it comes to chickens. Look into them. The eyes should be bright with the color of the iris matching in both eyes. The eyes should not look all bubbly and wet. Yech!

** There shouldn't be any mucus in the nostrils. You can place your head to the bird's back and listen. You don't want to hear any wheezing sounds. You know, sounds like you make yourself if you have an upper respiratory infection.

** The sinuses, just above the nostrils should not be puffy. Just like you if you have a sinus infection.

** Ears should be clear of infection. If there is cheese-like matter in the ears, be warned.

** Look at the comb. Although some breeds have naturally darker-colored combs, the comb should be bright and not shriveled up.

** Check the legs. You don't want to see raised, scaly patches. Legs should be smooth.

** Look at the vent area. That's where you'd expect it to be. Where we all vent. The backside. Dirt in this area could indicate mites or lice.

** Now you should handle the bird. Each side of the breastbone should have a reasonable covering of flesh. Lighter breeds will have less coverage but the breastbone shouldn't be prominent with no flesh on the sides.

** Crests, at the top of the head, shouldn't have signs of northern fowl mite.

I know this sounds complicated but it is worth your time. Take along someone who knows chickens if you don't feel confident in the signs to look for. You don't want to get attached to your feathered friends only to find out they are ill.

In many ways it is common sense. If a bird looks vibrant and healthy, it is! Good luck.

Raising Chickens? How To Build A Chicken Hutch

A chicken coop? A chicken hutch? What's the difference and what do you need?

That depends on the number of chickens. If you're only going to keep one or two chickens, a chicken hutch will do the job. With less money and time involved. (Others build a hutch to put in their coop!)

If you're new to raising chickens, starting with a hutch is the ideal way to begin. And so easy to find a place in your yard for your hen's new home.

Things To Know

Build A Good Sized Door

Don't have your poor chickens struggle to get through the door.

Raise Off The Ground

Make sure the hutch is up off the ground about a foot. Coops are right on the ground. Not chicken hutches. You can have a ramp for easy access for the birds.

Easy-Opening Lid

This is for you to give you good access to the chickens and for cleaning purposes. Which the hutch should be cleaned weekly.

These tips make for happy YOU and happy chickens!

For plans on how to build chicken hutches and coops, Click Here!

Chicken Coops: Take Care Of Your Chicks In The Winter

Just as we have to bundle up in the cold temperatures, please don't forget about your chickens and hens! Extreme winter weather is hazardous to their health.

The temperature of your chicken coops must be regulated by the use of lamps. You don't want your chickens freezing to death! Although chickens can withstand high temperatures, freezing temperatures are a major killer.

You may also have noticed that chickens are punctual and like to maintain regular times. They leave the coop at daybreak and check in at sunset. Make sure your coop has a secure door you can lock after they're in for the night. Then open at day break.

If you don't want to do this manually, you can get automatic doors for chicken coops which will open and close at designated times!